15 April 2006

It was the birthday of the Prophet on Monday - most of the streets have been strewn with banners and people were handing out coffee and sweets. C-lo and I ended up making some new friends...

On that topic, it is striking how friendly many of the people here are - we have been given so many phone numbers accompanied by offers to help us with anything we need in Syria. The one English word that almost everyone here seems to know is "Welcome".

Its been a busy week with the Arabic, we were tested on what we have learned so far. I think I did pretty well - managed to remember 25 verbs and make up basic sentences based on them - i.e. I am eating bread.

Also been a busy week in the house - we've had a few late nights which have generally culminating up on the roof terrace. The weather most of this week has (finally!) been sunny and warm - with temperatures in the late 20s - so the nights have been very pleasant. We've met quite a few new and interesting people whom we hope to get to know better, inshallah.

On Friday we went on a walk to explore some new areas of Damascus - ended up encountering a mix of narrow alleyways (below) and quite grand tree-lined alleyways dating back a century or so.

This really is a place that needs exploration. Many modest exteriors disguise grandiose interior courtyards. On Friday we gained entrance to one place which has recently opened as an expensive hotel - Hotel Talisman. It is located in a modest alleyway in the south of the Old City - only the ornate wooden doorway gives any hint at the palatial interior: a huge courtyard complete with swimming pool sized fountain, beautiful tiles and ceilings. When we were allowed to look around there was some 1940s music playing gently. The whole scene suggested sedate colonial-era decadence - a striking contrast to the noise, dust and chaotic streetlife outside.

Unfortunately this example is rare - I guess that a combination of an excess of historical heritage and a lack of money has meant that so much is left uncared for. We see dozens of what once must have been grand buildings now left abandoned and literally ruined. Oh well.

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